Mock Wrap Skirt Review - Vogue 8711

Inspired by the draped and gathered outfits created by Donna Karan, I decided to try to make some asymmetric draped clothing myself. I especially liked the strong, warrior women Donna Karan sent striding down the catwalk for the Autumn / Winter 2013 show. I'm drawn to the powerful yet feminine aesthetic which she does so well.

Donna Karan does produce some patterns which come under the 'Vogue' pattern family. I had a closer look at Vogue 1259, (pictured below) however it appeared particularly complicated, I imagined getting into all sorts of trouble with that high neck...  The reviews I read seemed to confirm that it wasn't an easy pattern to sew. I was also looking for something with sleeves, or to which sleeves could be easily added. This pattern looks like a dress but is actually a top and skirt. I like the idea of creating an outfit with a top and skirt as it gives the option for wearing them separately also.

Whilst looking at some of the shows for Autumn/Winter 2014 and Spring/Summer 2015, I noticed a trend for front and side splits in skirts and also draped fronted or wrap skirts. Isabel Marant showed some beautiful sequinned wrap mini skirts worn with textured knit jumpers, click on the link above to take a look at one example.

Whilst browsing for patterns I came across this skirt with a draped front, Vogue 8711 (pictured above).

The pattern is for a mock wrap skirt designed for a stretch fabric with an elasticated waistband. I thought I could cobble together a draped top to end up with an outfit that looked something like this...

The instructions on the pattern include 'underlining' - I decided I would use the same fabric and basically double it up and sew the pieces together, and then treat them as one when sewing the skirt together. I didn't do this for the yoke pieces as this would have meant they would have been made up with four layers of fabric, which would have ended up bulky and difficult to work with.

I went to London to look for some fabric, Cloth House on 98 Berwick Street in Soho, has a great selection of jersey fabrics downstairs. I chose a dark brown fine wool jersey with plenty of stretch. As the fabric was quite expensive (and the last of the roll) I decided to experiment on some inexpensive fabric from Fabricland for the top as I wasn't using a shop bought pattern and I'd never trying draping before. After cutting the pieces of fabric front and back, and tacking the shoulder seams and one side seam and used my dummy and pinned some folds in the fabric.

The skirt pattern included three folds, and then gathers on top to create the draped effect. I decided to do something similar and create folds, close to the waist, and then add gathers using two rows of tacking. The draping experiment was successful (picture above) so I decided to go ahead with making the top.

I only had enough fabric to make the top in a single layer, I would wear it with a tight camisole or one of my Heatech tops from Uniqlo (love these) underneath. I am pleased with the top and skirt - I think a different shaped neckline would probably be more flattering but having a higher neckline certainly makes it warmer to wear.

I will make the skirt pattern again, perhaps in a longer length....

A Simple Dress Review - Vogue 8665

I love making and wearing dresses, and when the weather is warm enough, it's so easy to just put one piece of clothing on...

I bought this pattern Vogue 8665 to create a comfortable day dress in a black jersey fabric. I made the longer length design. The pattern uses a lot of fabric, the first dress I made was from ponte fabric from Fabricland. I included the zipper at the back as the fabric was only moderately stretchy. 

I'm not entirely happy with the finished garment, the fabric is quite heavy and because there is a lot of it at the bottom, it tends to pull it down somewhat, which results in the the waist being pulled out, I need to wear a belt to try to stop this happening. I wanted a lighter, more 'fluid' looking dress and I think the ponte is too stiff and thick to create the look I'm after.

I did make another dress from this pattern in a lightweight, floral viscose, it certainly had the drape I was looking for. The fabric was very stretchy and I didn't need to include the zip. I used the overlocker to create a 'rolled hem', it was very quick to make. I did wear this version of the dress quite a lot, however I wasn't entirely happy with it either, even though it did fit much better that the ponte version.

This pattern is easy to make, I did make some adjustments to the seams so it fitted better around the torso, however this was very simple and quick to do. I'd also make it longer.

Trying the dress on and looking at it critically I think it would suit a body shape with narrow hips, that would benefit from adding volume onto this area - there is a lot of fabric below the waist and this adds bulk, it isn't really a design for my shape (small waist compared to hips). I think the line drawing shows the cut of the dress far more accurately than the croquis pictures on the front of the envelope. I've come to realise also that to create a dress with a tightly fitting waist, it is better to have a waist seam, with the top and bottom created separately.

If I make a dress from this pattern again, I'll adjust it to reduce the amount of fabric around the hip area so that the flare starts lower down. I'll choose a fine knit jersey fabric, and omit the zip. 

Cropped Trousers Review - Simplicity 1696

I find it particularly difficult to find tailored trousers which fit well, if they fit around the hips they are too big around the waist, even if the waistband falls below the natural waistline. Prompted by the need to own some practical and smart workwear, this year I made my first pair of trousers, prior to this I chose mainly to make skirts and dresses.

I decided on a slim fit with a modern cropped length. The Simplicity pattern 1696 is part of the Amazing Fit Collection and includes different 'cuts' for slim, average and curvy shapes. The trousers are designed with pockets, and a front fly with a zip, carriers for a belt and welts for faux back pockets (I did not include these).

The first pair of these trousers I made (pictured above) were to test out the pattern, and my abilities before trying them on a more expensive fabric. I used black cotton with a slight stretch from Fabricland. The pattern was relatively simple to sew, however fitting around the tops of the legs and crotch was difficult, I needed to make full use of the extra fabric allowance in the seam, and reduce the side seams between the hips and waist. I did not include the faux pocket welts - I don't need any extra bulk in this area.

Overall, I am pleased with the results, certainly considering they were my first attempt. I wore these trousers a lot with pointy flats for work.

Whilst in Ho Chi Minh City I decided to get a suit jacket made for me, as it's beyond my current skills to make a good job of such a complex garment. I chose a simple masculine design with a single button and pockets. My idea was to purchase additional fabric from which I could make matching trousers. 

The fabric is a fine wool / cashmere mix, the fabric has a slight sheen to give it a 'tuxedo' feel, inspired by the, ubiquitous, Saint Laurent suits. the jacket cost about £90 and was made by Dung (pronounced more like 'yung'). Their main shop is on Le Thanh Ton in District 1 near the market. The silk blouse is from And Other Stories.

Whilst I'm on the subject of buying clothing and fabric in Vietnam, if you are considering it, be aware tailoring tends to be on the 'tight' side, have a look at some of the clothes the locals are wearing to see examples. Also, much of the fabric is not what it is sold as, polyester is often sold as silk, wool and cashmere suiting fabrics also don't contain the fibres they, or the seller specifies.

Once back in the UK I used this pattern to make the trousers to match the jacket. I decided not to include the belt carriers, or welts for rear pockets. I also narrowed the legs slightly, this pair are slightly longer than the first. 

I don't think I'll make this pattern again, I don't feel the cut suits my shape and the adjustments were difficult. I expect I need more practice at trousers to get a real understanding of the construction to be able to tailor a better fit.

Beginner's Project - a Simple Skirt

If someone, who had never sewn before asked me how to get started I’d suggest attending a class or workshop - it is certainly faster to learn with help at hand. Some shops that sell sewing machines and/or fabrics hold classes.

An unlined pencil or A-line skirt is probably the easiest garment to make, therefore is a good one to start with. A simple skirt will be made from three or four pieces of fabric - one front piece, two back pieces and a waistband, if included. You will also need a zipper, I usually use concealed zips. Some good patterns for beginners include McCalls 3341, Simplicity 1465, New Look 6843 and Burda 8155.

The basic pencil skirt pattern I use instructs sewing all the seams, both sides and back, and then inserting the zip, which closes to waistband and then the waistband overlaps and fastens with hooks or similar.  However, I've found this can end up quite bulky so latterly I've attached the waistband before the zip and run it all the way up to the top so it is symmetrical and there is no need for a bulky overlap. 

Choosing Fabric

Chose a fabric that is easy to work with, i.e. does not fray too much and holds it's shape, cotton is a good choice. If you choose a printed fabric be aware that stripes, or geometric patterns will need to be lined up more carefully when placing the skirt pattern on the fabric, so a small, irregular pattern is probably a better choice. 

The floral print skirt in the top picture was made from stretch drill cotton, I like a wide waistband that sits on the natural waist, many patters the waistline sits a few inches below the natural waist. The second picture is of a grey stretch suiting fabric purchased from Fabricland, this skirt has served me well and put up with being used whilst riding a scooter. The tops are from Uniqlo, I have three in different colours and absolutely love them. The shoes are Mary Portas for Clarks.

Equipment - Overlocker (Serger) Machine Janome 9300DX

If you take a look at how modern clothing is constructed you'll often find that it has been sewn using a conventional sewing machine, and overlocker (called a serger in the US) and a coverstitch machine, which finishes hems. Some machines can function both as overlockers and coverstitch machines.

An overlocker does not replace a conventional sewing machine but provides some different features that can be used in addition to a standard machine. It can however be used as the sole machine in the construction of particular garments. An overlocker will sew the seam, trim the excess fabric with a blade, and neatly cover the raw fabric edges, together, inside of the seam. The result is a neat seam that does not fray. Another characteristic of an overlocked seam is its ability to stretch, making it ideal for use with knit fabrics.

Sometimes an overlocker is used to prevent fraying of the raw edge and a conventional machine is used to sew the seam, as the case with my beloved Agnes B shift dress. The seams of the lining were overlocked for neatness. The raw edge of the hem of the dress was overlocked and then turned to the inside and secured with a pick-stitch (prick-stitch). The hem of the lining was finished with a conventional machine

I decided to buy the Janome 9300DX, I was very happy with my Janome sewing machine and this overlocker had good reviews so I ordered it from Sewing World in Bournemouth, it cost about £250. The machine comes with an instruction DVD, which I've found very useful and referred back to numerous times, look past the comical music and dated fashions.

The machine uses three (standard) or four (wide) threads to create the stitch. I usually use three threads which uses one needle and two loops.

I've also found the machine really useful for creating, what the manufacturers refer to, as a 'rolled hem', this is basically a very narrow hem with the thread encasing the raw edge, ideal  for thin fabrics such as chiffon or silk or lightweight polyesters. 



The stitching can be used to simply make a decorative edge to a hem, contrasting colours and weights of thread can be used to create different effects. In addition to seam stitching the machine can be used for creating pin tucks, gathering and joining differing fabrics such as ribbing and lace, I'm yet to try theses.

The machine comes pre threaded with four white spools - which is very useful as it is awkward to thread from scratch, I recommend when you do change the spools you snip the existing thread and knot it to your replacement thread, the manual suggest this method also.

Thread is sold especially for using on overlocker machines, the fibres of the thread are less smooth than standard sewing thread, apparently to help cover the raw edge.