Equipment - Overlocker (Serger) Machine Janome 9300DX

If you take a look at how modern clothing is constructed you'll often find that it has been sewn using a conventional sewing machine, and overlocker (called a serger in the US) and a coverstitch machine, which finishes hems. Some machines can function both as overlockers and coverstitch machines.

An overlocker does not replace a conventional sewing machine but provides some different features that can be used in addition to a standard machine. It can however be used as the sole machine in the construction of particular garments. An overlocker will sew the seam, trim the excess fabric with a blade, and neatly cover the raw fabric edges, together, inside of the seam. The result is a neat seam that does not fray. Another characteristic of an overlocked seam is its ability to stretch, making it ideal for use with knit fabrics.

Sometimes an overlocker is used to prevent fraying of the raw edge and a conventional machine is used to sew the seam, as the case with my beloved Agnes B shift dress. The seams of the lining were overlocked for neatness. The raw edge of the hem of the dress was overlocked and then turned to the inside and secured with a pick-stitch (prick-stitch). The hem of the lining was finished with a conventional machine

I decided to buy the Janome 9300DX, I was very happy with my Janome sewing machine and this overlocker had good reviews so I ordered it from Sewing World in Bournemouth, it cost about £250. The machine comes with an instruction DVD, which I've found very useful and referred back to numerous times, look past the comical music and dated fashions.

The machine uses three (standard) or four (wide) threads to create the stitch. I usually use three threads which uses one needle and two loops.

I've also found the machine really useful for creating, what the manufacturers refer to, as a 'rolled hem', this is basically a very narrow hem with the thread encasing the raw edge, ideal  for thin fabrics such as chiffon or silk or lightweight polyesters. 



The stitching can be used to simply make a decorative edge to a hem, contrasting colours and weights of thread can be used to create different effects. In addition to seam stitching the machine can be used for creating pin tucks, gathering and joining differing fabrics such as ribbing and lace, I'm yet to try theses.

The machine comes pre threaded with four white spools - which is very useful as it is awkward to thread from scratch, I recommend when you do change the spools you snip the existing thread and knot it to your replacement thread, the manual suggest this method also.

Thread is sold especially for using on overlocker machines, the fibres of the thread are less smooth than standard sewing thread, apparently to help cover the raw edge.