Tuesday, 11 November 2014

Cropped Trousers Review - Simplicity 1696

I find it particularly difficult to find tailored trousers which fit well, if they fit around the hips they are too big around the waist, even if the waistband falls below the natural waistline. Prompted by the need to own some practical and smart workwear, this year I made my first pair of trousers, prior to this I chose mainly to make skirts and dresses.




I decided on a slim fit with a modern cropped length. The Simplicity pattern 1696 is part of the Amazing Fit Collection and includes different 'cuts' for slim, average and curvy shapes. The trousers are designed with pockets, and a front fly with a zip, carriers for a belt and welts for faux back pockets (I did not include these).

The first pair of these trousers I made (pictured above) were to test out the pattern, and my abilities before trying them on a more expensive fabric. I used black cotton with a slight stretch from Fabricland. The pattern was relatively simple to sew, however fitting around the tops of the legs and crotch was difficult, I needed to make full use of the extra fabric allowance in the seam, and reduce the side seams between the hips and waist. I did not include the faux pocket welts - I don't need any extra bulk in this area.

Overall, I am pleased with the results, certainly considering they were my first attempt. I wore these trousers a lot with pointy flats for work.

Whilst in Ho Chi Minh City I decided to get a suit jacket made for me, as it's beyond my current skills to make a good job of such a complex garment. I chose a simple masculine design with a single button and pockets. My idea was to purchase additional fabric from which I could make matching trousers. 

The fabric is a fine wool / cashmere mix, the fabric has a slight sheen to give it a 'tuxedo' feel, inspired by the, ubiquitous, Saint Laurent suits. the jacket cost about £90 and was made by Dung (pronounced more like 'yung'). Their main shop is on Le Thanh Ton in District 1 near the market. The silk blouse is from And Other Stories.

Whilst I'm on the subject of buying clothing and fabric in Vietnam, if you are considering it, be aware tailoring tends to be on the 'tight' side, have a look at some of the clothes the locals are wearing to see examples. Also, much of the fabric is not what it is sold as, polyester is often sold as silk, wool and cashmere suiting fabrics also don't contain the fibres they, or the seller specifies.

Once back in the UK I used this pattern to make the trousers to match the jacket. I decided not to include the belt carriers, or welts for rear pockets. I also narrowed the legs slightly, this pair are slightly longer than the first. 

I don't think I'll make this pattern again, I don't feel the cut suits my shape and the adjustments were difficult. I expect I need more practice at trousers to get a real understanding of the construction to be able to tailor a better fit.

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